Frequently Asked Questions
1) What is a BoloNoodle? Click
here.
2) I hear that there are a lot of Puppy Mills in
Missouri. Can you reassure me that you are not a puppy
mill?
I can assure you that we are not a puppy mill. Do you
know what a puppy mill is? The animal activists have not
even given a definition for the term "puppy mill." They
have purposely NOT given a definition to the term in order to
lump all breeders into that category. Ask a animal
activist and a puppy mill is anyone who breeds dogs, yet the
pictures they post are of sickly, malnourished puppies who are
raised in a small cage, are not socialized and some can't even
walk on the ground. Ask people in the dog industry and a
puppy mill is a substandard kennel, one that is not state and/or
government licensed and inspected. The kennel that raised
a puppy that looks like the ones in the "puppy mill" ads would
be shut down immediately IF they were licensed and
inspected. The animal activists don't want you to know
that.
For more information on puppy mills,
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1. Puppies need 16-20 hours of sleep per day.
2. Puppies should have food and water available 24/7.
3. Gentle treatment -- Puppies should not be
unsupervised with children and other animals. Like human
babies, puppies need to be held and
like all babies, care and handling is very important. No
poking,
tossing, or swinging.
4. Crate training: Unsupervised pups should BE IN
THEIR CRATE, so they feel safe and secure and
reduce training stress.
5. In the crate the puppy should have safe toys and all
toys should be at least 3 times larger than the
puppy's mouth is wide. The
puppy should NEVER have a collar on while in the crate, they can
hang
themselves.
6. During supervised play, give puppies soft latex
toys, rope bones, and non-digestible bones. Do not
get them rawhide bones. If a
rawhide is chewed on for a long period of time, it can get very
soft and
wet from the puppy's saliva.
When it gets soft and small, it can be swallowed and potentially
cause
bowel obstructions. A puppy
needs chew toys only while TEETHING, and at no other time.
Once all
the baby teeth are out, he/she no
longer needs the chew toys. We recommend all
Greenies products.
7. Puppies thrive and learn best when they are on a
schedule and have consistent expectations.
Sudden changes in food or
environment can play havoc with their digestive system.
Here is a link for a crate that will work for small breeds.
Click
here.
4) Why are some of the puppies in the same
litter priced differently? Or why are some of your dogs so
expensive?
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5)
How will I receive my puppy? I don't live anywhere near
you.
We fly American Airlines,
Priority Parcel, and Delta or Continental if American does not
come to your town. If the temperatures are too hot or too
cold, we can ship by truck or with Continental. We also
hand deliver to some areas of the midwest. We ship to
every state in the USA (except Hawaii) and also to Canada.
We won't ship to Hawaii
If Hawaii changes this law,
someone PLEASE let us know,
e-mail here.
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Normally from $250
7) What types of payment do you accept?
We gladly accept PayPal (please
add their 3% fee), personal check, Wal-Mart MoneyGram, or postal
money order. Western Union is also an option, but is
expensive. Send it to Salem, Missouri, there is only one
Western Union here. If you use this method, please call us
with the tracking number. If you mail a personal check,
send a MoneyGram, money order or Western Union, please
e-mail us and let us know
so we can put your puppy on hold until we receive it.
8) Do you offer a contract or
health guarantee?
Yes. Click
here.
9) Will my puppy be house trained
when I get it?
We will begin the potty training process. It will be up
to you to finish the job. Very few 8 week old puppies have
mastered this process. Besides, even if we train your
puppy completely, he will have no idea where the bathroom is at
your place. Our tip: BE CONSISTENT. Accidents are
your fault, not the puppy's.
10) Will my puppy have had his
shots?
Yes, all our puppies are kept current on their vaccinations
and wormings (for their age) and will come with their shot and
worming record. Simply take this to your vet and they will
be able to keep your puppy on schedule.
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12) What treat/reward do you recommend for house
training?
Bil-Jac makes a dog treat that comes in a small milk carton type
container. This is probably the ONLY small treat on the market
that will not upset your puppies digestive system. Break the
treats into smaller pieces when using them. Puppies are SMART
(especially the ones we raise) and may not eat their dog food,
holding out for a treat. You will find that the Bolognese and
the Bolo-Noodle thrive on seeing that their behavior makes you
happy. Vigorous verbal praise may be all the reward that they
require.
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Depends on how old your puppy is when you select him/her.
We cannot (by law) ship a puppy before it is 8 weeks old.
We are usually able to ship the puppy within one week of
receiving the final payment--presuming it is 8 weeks of age, and
the puppy vet checks OK and is large enough to travel. A
very tiny breed we may choose to hold back a week or so.
This will be at our discretion, and will be agreed upon ahead of
time. If we keep them back, we will send you updated
photos while you wait.
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Yes, we will accept payments as long as you are regularly
doing so and we are not holding the puppy for an unreasonable
length of time.
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The chip is not for everybody. If you live
in an urban area where the puppy might get lost or
stolen, a chip is a good idea. If your dog
shows up in a shelter or dog pound, a simple scan
will immediately identify him/her as yours. No
questions asked.
If you live in a rural area where dog theft is
virtually unknown and neighbors understand that dogs
will roam around and that is not a problem, then you
probably don't need a chip. However, for a
more expensive dog, if someone accused you of
stealing their dog, or thinks your dog is theirs, a
chip is also proof of ownership.
The toughest issue is if you live somewhere in
the middle, in a more suburban area. I can
only tell you what the pros and cons are and let you
decide if you would like a chip for your puppy.
Some who raise show dogs chip them because of their
value. Some who are so emotionally tied to
their pet that they can't imagine life without them
will chip them to identify the dog faster IF it ever
shows up again. Some people chip their dog
just because it is a cool conversation piece, a new
technology. And for every reason to chip there
are equally good reasons not to. Animal
advocates say that it hurts the animal (yes, it is
inserted with a needle). Some people say that
it is just the next step toward having BIG BROTHER
in our midst, desensitizing people to idea of
micro-chipping children, which is a WHOLE other,
although related, can of worms.
What the chip does not do is track your dogs
movements by satellite if he's lost. The chip
will benefit you if your dog later turns up at a
vets office (if he's stolen) or animal shelter (if
he's lost). They can scan the dog and know
that the dog is indeed registered to you and
rightfully yours if you choose to reclaim it.
Basically, we offer a service to our customers
for a lot less than they can get it from your local
vet. We are not endorsing chipping over not
chipping, just giving you an idea how it may be
beneficial for you or your pet. The option is
yours. We offer it for $50, a fraction of what
your vet will charge. If you decide to have
your dog micro-chipped, please register the chip
number with Home Again AND your local veterinarian.
This information will come with your puppy. If
you do not register your puppy with Home Again, if
the puppy is stolen we will be contacted instead of
you as Home Again registers the chips they sell us
in our name, however tracking becomes more
difficult. The chip number is written next to
your name, but not LINKED to your name. That
is your job. If someone has your dog, and all
they can provide us is a chip number, we have to dig
through all our records to find your name and
contact information.
Click
here to register the microchip on-line in YOUR
name.
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As often as you wish IF you are using a
quality shampoo and conditioner, but you do not need
to bathe a dog more than once a week (unless they have
wallowed in something smelly). Dog shampoos are priced
higher than necessary. Use Johnson's baby shampoo and
a good quality conditioner/cream rinse (the kind made for
humans is fine) then blow dry the puppy and while combing
him/her out, lightly powder the puppy with Johnson's
baby powder. This baby powder will coat the hair and
will keep the hair looking nice and clean for a longer
period of time. Please note that baby powder irritates
the skin of some dogs. If your puppy has dry skin or
rashes after bathing, it may be the baby powder.
Discontinue use if this is the case.
We offer a quality product called Spa Lavish. If
you follow the instructions it will last a LONG time.
Click here and scroll down.
17) Do you offer T-Cup puppies other than T-Cup
Chihuahuas?
Short answer: No.
Long answer: T-Cup describes only a Chihuahua that is
smaller than the Chihuahua standard ("Toy" describes
only a small Poodle, "Sleeve" describes a Pekingese that
is smaller than the standard, and "Imperial" describes a
Shih Tzu that is smaller than the standard).
Granted, the Yorkshire Terrier (for instance) is called
a toy breed because it is small (4.5 to 7.5 lbs is the
standard), but there is no designation for a Yorkie that
is smaller than the standard. Many unscrupulous
breeders designate their small breeds Toy or T-cup in
order to jack the price up--because a dog that is
smaller than the standard generally commands a higher
price. If one of our puppies is smaller than the
standard, we simply state as much. Yes, the price
may be higher, but our integrity as a breeder will not
permit us to sell a puppy as a T-Cup or Toy, unless it
is a Chihuahua or Poodle (respectively). We
offer both breeds.
Not all breeders are this scrupulous.
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For all dogs, early spay/neuter means a better
behaved dog, and makes them less likely to roam.
Sex specific reasons follow:
Males: If you wait a
year to have him neutered, he will have become an adult and
he will be peeing on everything you own. Marking his
territory will have become a habit by the time he is a year
of age so even if you neuter him later, he will continue to
do it. If you want to neuter him on your end, that is
fine, but if you want to have a nice pet, we recommend
neutering before 4 months of age. This way he will not
learn the adult behaviors that males are noted for.
Your vet can help you decide when he is ready. We
offer to spay/neuter our puppies before you get them because
we get a professional discount from our vet, and we pass the
savings on to you. If you plan to breed him and THEN
neuter him, he will have become a "man" and you will never
be able to discourage him from marking his territory
afterward.
With males, you can have a good pet or a breeder, one or the
other. If he will be an outside dog, this won't be
an issue, but most folks do not want an inside dog peeing on
everything they own.
Also, testicular cancer is the #2 cancer in male dogs.
Neutering eliminates this probability.
Females: For every heat cycle that she goes through and
she is not bred, you increase her chance of cancer in the female
organs by 10%. Since an adult will go through 2 heat
cycles a year normally, that is 20% chance increase every year.
Is this a risk you want to take?
If you want to spay her on your end, that is fine,
but if you want to have a nice pet and a healthy pet, we
recommend spaying before 4 months of age. Your vet
can help you decide when she is ready. If you plan
to breed her a time or two THEN spay her, that is OK as
long as you understand that she will pee to mark her
territory for the rest of her life (once you are done
with your little breeding experiment). Once she is
a breeding adult, you will not be able to persuade her
that she isn't.
Now you can make an informed decision. Pets happen.
19) My vet says he does not recommend that I spay
or neuter a dog until it is 4-6 months of age. Why do
you spay/neuter so young?
Bottom line: your vet does not want to do the spay/neuter
early or is afraid to because the organs to be removed are
very small, and it is a little more difficult to do the
surgery. Waiting until the dog is older means larger
organs and an easier job for him/her. There is nothing scientific behind their
reluctance to spay/neuter at a very young age.
The arguments for early-age spay/neuter:
* Overpopulation and the resulting neglect, suffering,
euthanasia -- early-age spay/neuter completely eliminates
the possibility of unwanted litters. * It avoids heat cycles
completely: unwelcome 'visitors' fighting on the lawn,
females howling and yowling! * Neutered males are
less likely to roam and fight, thus preventing injuries,
spread of disease, and costly veterinary expenses. It
has been estimated that 80% of dogs killed by cars and 80%
of Feline AIDS cases are unneutered males. * Better-behaved pets
-- neutered pets rarely spray mark, roam and fight.
85% of bites involve unneutered dogs. * Healthier pets --
neutered males don't have the testicular cancer or prostate
problems common in intact dogs. Females spayed before their
first heat cycle have 96% less breast cancer. Their risk of
uterine infection is dramatically decreased, not to mention
the many complications associated with pregnancy, whelping
or raising a litter. * It's safe -- the
mortality rate is lower than that of the standard 6-9 month
sterilization procedure. * It's less traumatic
for the pet -- young animals heal faster and are lower
surgical risks than older animals who may be obese, in heat,
pregnant, or ill. Young animals generally wake up faster
after anesthesia. Many humane shelters
across the country now endorse spaying and neutering at the
time of adoption. If yours didn't, then please ask your vet
to perform a pediatric or early-age spay/neuter (also
sometimes called juvenile or prepubertal spay/neuter) on
your new pet. They should be able to address any
questions or concerns you may have. For more
information, you may also visit
No conclusive controlled studies have
ever been done to determine the best age to neuter dogs and
cats. On the other hand, current research does show
that spaying before the first heat prevents the development
of mammary gland tumors. Since
females can go into heat as young as four months of age,
they should be spayed before then to receive that
protection. Early-age, or pediatric, neutering is
currently performed on animals who are six to eight weeks of
age and who weigh at least two pounds. From the outset, veterinarians expressed
concern about the long- and short-term safety of operating
on such young animals. Short-term safety was
documented in 1993 when doctors at Angell Memorial Hospital
in Boston published protocols for safe surgery and
anesthesia in the Journal of the American Veterinary
Medical Association. Other studies have since
confirmed their conclusions, and in December 2000, JAVMA
reported that researchers at Texas A & M University found no
increase in physical or behavioral problems in cats for at
least three years postoperatively. Veterinarians have
been safely performing the surgeries for shelters since the
1980s, adding to the growing body of supportive anecdotal
information. There is a lot of
documentation to support spaying/neutering at a young age.
It would appear that we are just ahead of our time.
Some studies seem to link incontinence with early spaying.
Many vets read only PART of the study and ignore the
evidence. Since the publication
of this article in 2001, additional studies were conducted
by Spain and Scarlett at Cornell University, which
established the long-term safety of pediatric neutering.
Thousands of animals were looked at for the study, some of
them 11 years after neutering—and the only major concern was
that female puppies may be more likely to experience urinary
incontinence if spayed before three months of age.
Continuing Controversy Unfortunately, despite
the new studies, the controversy continues—and many
veterinarians are still very hesitant to try pediatric
neutering. Concerns about obesity, stunted growth,
underdevelopment of secondary sex characteristics,
behavioral problems and increased incidence of both lower
urinary tract disease and urinary incontinence have been
addressed in the veterinary literature and found to be
unwarranted. Any differences that have been found
appear to have no clinical significance, or occur regardless
of the age at neutering. The American Veterinary
Medical Association and the American Animal Hospital
Association are just two professional organizations that
support pediatric neutering. Veterinarians at the
ASPCA have been neutering all shelter animals who weigh at
least two pounds before adoption. Yet despite the
research, testimonials, anecdotal information and
endorsements, the controversy continues. Ironically,
veterinarians who perform pediatric surgery insist that it
is faster and less stressful to the animal than surgery at
the conventional age. There is less body fat to
contend with, bleeding is minimal and the patients are awake
much sooner after surgery. They can be fed a small
meal and sent home the same day. No special surgical
equipment is needed. If the procedure is performed
when the last vaccination is given at three to four months
of age, owner compliance is increased. Most vwas
deciding to try something different. The best part is
that everyone benefits. Veterinarians who at first
were reluctant to try pediatric neutering now find that they
prefer it—the hardest part was deciding to try something
different. The best part is that everyone benefits. This
article (the above three
paragraphs), written by the
ASPCA’s Lila Miller, DVM,
Vice President, Veterinary
Outreach, originally
appeared in the Spring 2001
issue of ASPCA Animal Watch,
and was updated to include
more recent studies in
August 2006. The Controversy is Over: Prepubertal
Neutering is the Surgery of Choice By Jeff Young, DVM The ideal age for neutering our companion
animal friends is 8-16 weeks. Prepubertal neutering
has been ‘controversial’ for years. Because of this
controversy, a lot of academic research, independent studies
and anecdotal evidence has accumulated. The University of Florida conducted the
first truly controlled study in 1991 comparing neutering at
7 weeks vs. 7 months of age. Texas A&M and the University of
Florida have looked at urethral diameters in prepubertal vs.
conventionally neutered animals. The University of Colorado has provided
very useful anesthetic protocols and the University of
Minnesota has reviewed the literature extensively with
regard to prepubertal neutering. The nineties produced a lot of data with
which to move forward. Just as the scientific literature has
grown, so has the anecdotal information coming from humane
societies, private veterinary practices, spay/neuter clinics
and owners of pets neutered prepubertally. The veterinary profession has for decades
made 6-8 months the recommended age for neutering. There is
With regard
to urinary incontinence, the literature is in
conflict and inconclusive.
Studies place
incontinence from 4% to 20% of neutered female dogs and 0.4
to 8% in unaltered female dogs. What is clear is that
large breed dogs are more commonly affected than small breed
dogs. Many factors including breed, thyroid level,
allergies and level of obesity have not been fully
evaluated. Blaming urinary incontinence on lack of
estrogen is not logical or fully supported by research.
Why is it that pregnant bitches don’t have increased rates
of incontinence, given they have extremely low estrogen?
It is possible that obesity (controllable) and
hypothyroidism (treatable) may prove to be primary factors
in urinary incontinence. At this time it is clear that
prepubertally neutered females actually have a lower
incidence of incontinence than those neutered at the
‘traditional’ age. Also, the overall benefits of
neutering are much greater than the alternative. Their own
national organization (AVMA) has endorsed the practice of
prepubertal neutering since 1993.
Prepubertal dogs never develop ovarian or uterine tumors,
get pyometra or go into heat. Mammary cancer (the #1
cancer in female dogs) is almost eliminated with prepubertal
neutering. Testicular cancer is the #2 cancer in male
dogs and a full 60% of unaltered dogs over the age of 5
develop prostate problems. Perianal tumors are the
most common tumor in male dogs and are directly correlated
with testosterone. The research, literature and
anecdotal evidence are quite clear. Prepubertal
neutering has many more positive benefits than negative.
Prepubertal neutering must become a major tool in the fight
against companion animal overpopulation. Prepubertal
animals are just healthier, happier pets that will make any
adoption program more successful.
Here are some links for more information:
http://www.spayusa.org/media/pdfs/prepubal_neutering.pdf
20) What if I don't want my dog
spayed or neutered?
There are some who do not like to alter animals
because they think it is cruel or expensive, or unnecessary.
However, animals were designed to make babies at a certain rate.
When that natural cycle is interrupted by mankind, problems occur.
Nature is what it is. Spaying is not cruel, what IS cruel is
permitting an animal to get cancers when it is preventable by using
common sense.
We are concerned about the well being of the puppies we produce, not
meeting our customers' level of training, tradition or understanding.
In this case, the customer is not always right.
21) Tell me about the neutered male.
A neutered male makes a better pet than any female, every
day of the week. This is a general rule for all
breeds. We recommend a neutered male for families
because a male will love everybody. As a general
rule, a female (spayed or not) will like only one family
member and tolerate everyone else at best.
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