Jarbeth's Kennel
Bolognese, BoloNoodle, Bullmastiff, Chihuahua, 
Great Pyrenees, Newfoundland, Toy Poodle, Silky Terrier...

Bolo-Noodle   Bullmastiff   Toy Poodle   Bolognese   Silky Terrier   Chihuahua

Home Available Puppies Contact Us FAQ References

Frequently Asked Questions

 

1)  What is a BoloNoodle? Click here.

 

 

2)  I hear that there are a lot of Puppy Mills in Missouri.  Can you reassure me that you are not a puppy mill? 

I can assure you that we are not a puppy mill.  Do you know what a puppy mill is?  The animal activists have not even given a definition for the term "puppy mill."  They have purposely NOT given a definition to the term in order to lump all breeders into that category.  Ask a animal activist and a puppy mill is anyone who breeds dogs, yet the pictures they post are of sickly, malnourished puppies who are raised in a small cage, are not socialized and some can't even walk on the ground.  Ask people in the dog industry and a puppy mill is a substandard kennel, one that is not state and/or government licensed and inspected.  The kennel that raised a puppy that looks like the ones in the "puppy mill" ads would be shut down immediately IF they were licensed and inspected.  The animal activists don't want you to know that.

 

For more information on puppy mills, click here.

 

 

3)  Is there anything I need to know that will help my puppy thrive?

1.  Puppies need 16-20 hours of sleep per day.

2.  Puppies should have food and water available 24/7.

3.  Gentle treatment -- Puppies should not be unsupervised with children and other animals.  Like human

     babies, puppies need to be held and like all babies, care and handling is very important.  No poking,

     tossing, or swinging.

4.  Crate training:  Unsupervised pups should BE IN THEIR CRATE, so they feel safe and secure and

     reduce training stress.

5.  In the crate the puppy should have safe toys and all toys should be at least 3 times larger than the

     puppy's mouth is wide.  The puppy should NEVER have a collar on while in the crate, they can hang

     themselves.

6.  During supervised play, give puppies soft latex toys, rope bones, and non-digestible bones.  Do not

     get them rawhide bones.  If a rawhide is chewed on for a long period of time, it can get very soft and

     wet from the puppy's saliva.  When it gets soft and small, it can be swallowed and potentially cause

     bowel obstructions.  A puppy needs chew toys only while TEETHING, and at no other time.  Once all

     the baby teeth are out, he/she no longer needs the chew toys.   We recommend all Greenies products.

7.  Puppies thrive and learn best when they are on a schedule and have consistent expectations. 

     Sudden changes in food or environment can play havoc with their digestive system.

 

Here is a link for a crate that will work for small breeds.  Click here.

 

 

4)  Why are some of the puppies in the same litter priced differently?  Or why are some of your dogs so expensive?

Each puppy is priced differently based on information such as size, gender, markings, and the overall quality of each puppy.  The rarity or availability of the breed also affects the price of some of our higher priced dogs.  Females are generally more expensive (due to demand) than males.  A rare color or markings that perfectly meet the standard will also raise the price, likewise, a common color or markings that are not within the standard will reduce the price.  All our dogs are purebred (unless otherwise advertised), but some are pet quality, others are are show quality.  The price rises with quality. 

 

 

5)  How will I receive my puppy?  I don't live anywhere near you.

We fly American Airlines, Priority Parcel, and Delta or Continental if American does not come to your town.  If the temperatures are too hot or too cold, we can ship by truck or with Continental.  We also hand deliver to some areas of the midwest.  We ship to every state in the USA (except Hawaii) and also to Canada.  We won't ship to Hawaii because they have a 6 month quarantine period where the puppy is held in a state run kennel.  We don't want to subject our puppies to 6 months of no family.  Living in a cage for 6 months is not for our puppies. 

 

If Hawaii changes this law, someone PLEASE let us know, e-mail here.

 

 

6)  How much does it cost to ship the puppy?

Normally from $250-275, depending on the size of the breed.  This includes: registration papers, shot and worming record, health guarantee, health certificate from the vet, a few days sample of the food we use, crate and airfare.  In some cases, the price listed includes shipping, unless otherwise indicated.  When shipping to Alaska or northern Canada, it can cost as much as $335-375. 

 

 

7)  What types of payment do you accept?

We gladly accept PayPal (please add their 3% fee), personal check, Wal-Mart MoneyGram, or postal money order.  Western Union is also an option, but is expensive.  Send it to Salem, Missouri, there is only one Western Union here.  If you use this method, please call us with the tracking number.  If you mail a personal check, send a MoneyGram, money order or Western Union, please e-mail us and let us know so we can put your puppy on hold until we receive it. 

 

 

8)  Do you offer a contract or health guarantee?

Yes.  Click here

 

 

9)  Will my puppy be house trained when I get it?

We will begin the potty training process.  It will be up to you to finish the job.  Very few 8 week old puppies have mastered this process.  Besides, even if we train your puppy completely, he will have no idea where the bathroom is at your place.  Our tip: BE CONSISTENT.  Accidents are your fault, not the puppy's.

 

 

10)  Will my puppy have had his shots?

Yes, all our puppies are kept current on their vaccinations and wormings (for their age) and will come with their shot and worming record.  Simply take this to your vet and they will be able to keep your puppy on schedule.

 

 

11)  What brand of food do you feed or recommend?

Royal Canin (see recommended product page) or Bil-Jac.  We will send a sample of our feed for you to use until you can purchase some.  If you choose to use a different brand, please mix the portion we send 50-50 with your selected brand.  When that is gone, your puppy will be transitioned to your food and may eat it without getting sick.  We DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES recommend store brand dog foods.  They are very poor quality, have a lot of sawdust (called cellulose fiber) in them and poor quality meats.  Any sickness or skin problems that results from feeding store brand feed will not be covered in our health guarantee.

 

 

12)  What treat/reward do you recommend for house training?

Bil-Jac makes a dog treat that comes in a small milk carton type container.  This is probably the ONLY small treat on the market that will not upset your puppies digestive system.  Break the treats into smaller pieces when using them.  Puppies are SMART (especially the ones we raise) and may not eat their dog food, holding out for a treat.  You will find that the Bolognese and the Bolo-Noodle thrive on seeing that their behavior makes you happy.  Vigorous verbal praise may be all the reward that they require.

 

 

13)  How long do I have to wait after I select my puppy?

Depends on how old your puppy is when you select him/her.  We cannot (by law) ship a puppy before it is 8 weeks old.  We are usually able to ship the puppy within one week of receiving the final payment--presuming it is 8 weeks of age, and the puppy vet checks OK and is large enough to travel.  A very tiny breed we may choose to hold back a week or so.  This will be at our discretion, and will be agreed upon ahead of time.  If we keep them back, we will send you updated photos while you wait.

 

 

14)  Can I make payments?

Yes, we will accept payments as long as you are regularly doing so and we are not holding the puppy for an unreasonable length of time.

 

 

15)  You offer the Home Again microchip.  Does my dog NEED this?

The chip is not for everybody.  If you live in an urban area where the puppy might get lost or stolen, a chip is a good idea.  If your dog shows up in a shelter or dog pound, a simple scan will immediately identify him/her as yours.  No questions asked.

 

If you live in a rural area where dog theft is virtually unknown and neighbors understand that dogs will roam around and that is not a problem, then you probably don't need a chip.  However, for a more expensive dog, if someone accused you of stealing their dog, or thinks your dog is theirs, a chip is also proof of ownership.

 

The toughest issue is if you live somewhere in the middle, in a more suburban area.  I can only tell you what the pros and cons are and let you decide if you would like a chip for your puppy.  Some who raise show dogs chip them because of their value.  Some who are so emotionally tied to their pet that they can't imagine life without them will chip them to identify the dog faster IF it ever shows up again.  Some people chip their dog just because it is a cool conversation piece, a new technology.  And for every reason to chip there are equally good reasons not to.  Animal advocates say that it hurts the animal (yes, it is inserted with a needle).  Some people say that it is just the next step toward having BIG BROTHER in our midst, desensitizing people to idea of micro-chipping children, which is a WHOLE other, although related, can of worms.

 

What the chip does not do is track your dogs movements by satellite if he's lost.  The chip will benefit you if your dog later turns up at a vets office (if he's stolen) or animal shelter (if he's lost).  They can scan the dog and know that the dog is indeed registered to you and rightfully yours if you choose to reclaim it.

 

Basically, we offer a service to our customers for a lot less than they can get it from your local vet.  We are not endorsing chipping over not chipping, just giving you an idea how it may be beneficial for you or your pet.  The option is yours.  We offer it for $50, a fraction of what your vet will charge.  If you decide to have your dog micro-chipped, please register the chip number with Home Again AND your local veterinarian.  This information will come with your puppy.  If you do not register your puppy with Home Again, if the puppy is stolen we will be contacted instead of you as Home Again registers the chips they sell us in our name, however tracking becomes more difficult.  The chip number is written next to your name, but not LINKED to your name.  That is your job.  If someone has your dog, and all they can provide us is a chip number, we have to dig through all our records to find your name and contact information.

 

Click here to register the microchip on-line in YOUR name.

 

 

16)  How often should we bathe our puppy?

As often as you wish IF you are using a quality shampoo and conditioner, but you do not need to bathe a dog more than once a week (unless they have wallowed in something smelly).  Dog shampoos are priced higher than necessary.  Use Johnson's baby shampoo and a good quality conditioner/cream rinse (the kind made for humans is fine) then blow dry the puppy and while combing him/her out, lightly powder the puppy with Johnson's baby powder.  This baby powder will coat the hair and will keep the hair looking nice and clean for a longer period of time.  Please note that baby powder irritates the skin of some dogs.  If your puppy has dry skin or rashes after bathing, it may be the baby powder.  Discontinue use if this is the case.

 

We offer a quality product called Spa Lavish.  If you follow the instructions it will last a LONG time.  Click here and scroll down.

 

 

17)  Do you offer T-Cup puppies other than T-Cup Chihuahuas?

Short answer: No.

 

Long answer: T-Cup describes only a Chihuahua that is smaller than the Chihuahua standard ("Toy" describes only a small Poodle, "Sleeve" describes a Pekingese that is smaller than the standard, and "Imperial" describes a Shih Tzu that is smaller than the standard).  Granted, the Yorkshire Terrier (for instance) is called a toy breed because it is small (4.5 to 7.5 lbs is the standard), but there is no designation for a Yorkie that is smaller than the standard.  Many unscrupulous breeders designate their small breeds Toy or T-cup in order to jack the price up--because a dog that is smaller than the standard generally commands a higher price.  If one of our puppies is smaller than the standard, we simply state as much.  Yes, the price may be higher, but our integrity as a breeder will not permit us to sell a puppy as a T-Cup or Toy, unless it is a Chihuahua or Poodle (respectively).   We offer both breeds.

 

Not all breeders are this scrupulous. 

 

 

18)  You will not sell some of your puppies unless they are spayed or neutered.  Why?  What is the benefit of spaying and neutering?

For all dogs, early spay/neuter means a better behaved dog, and makes them less likely to roam.  Sex specific reasons follow:

Males:  If you wait a year to have him neutered, he will have become an adult and he will be peeing on everything you own.  Marking his territory will have become a habit by the time he is a year of age so even if you neuter him later, he will continue to do it.  If you want to neuter him on your end, that is fine, but if you want to have a nice pet, we recommend neutering before 4 months of age.  This way he will not learn the adult behaviors that males are noted for.  Your vet can help you decide when he is ready.  We offer to spay/neuter our puppies before you get them because we get a professional discount from our vet, and we pass the savings on to you.  If you plan to breed him and THEN neuter him, he will have become a "man" and you will never be able to discourage him from marking his territory afterward.

 

With males, you can have a good pet or a breeder, one or the other.  If he will be an outside dog, this won't be an issue, but most folks do not want an inside dog peeing on everything they own. 

 

Also, testicular cancer is the #2 cancer in male dogs.  Neutering eliminates this probability.

 

Females:  For every heat cycle that she goes through and she is not bred, you increase her chance of cancer in the female organs by 10%.  Since an adult will go through 2 heat cycles a year normally, that is 20% chance increase every year.  Is this a risk you want to take? 

 

If you want to spay her on your end, that is fine, but if you want to have a nice pet and a healthy pet, we recommend spaying before 4 months of age.  Your vet can help you decide when she is ready.  If you plan to breed her a time or two THEN spay her, that is OK as long as you understand that she will pee to mark her territory for the rest of her life (once you are done with your little breeding experiment).  Once she is a breeding adult, you will not be able to persuade her that she isn't.

 

Now you can make an informed decision.  Pets happen.

 

 

19)  My vet says he does not recommend that I spay or neuter a dog until it is 4-6 months of age.  Why do you spay/neuter so young?

Bottom line: your vet does not want to do the spay/neuter early or is afraid to because the organs to be removed are very small, and it is a little more difficult to do the surgery.  Waiting until the dog is older means larger organs and an easier job for him/her.  There is nothing scientific behind their reluctance to spay/neuter at a very young age.

 

The arguments for early-age spay/neuter:

* Overpopulation and the resulting neglect, suffering, euthanasia -- early-age spay/neuter completely eliminates the possibility of unwanted litters.

* It avoids heat cycles completely: unwelcome 'visitors' fighting on the lawn, females howling and yowling!

* Neutered males are less likely to roam and fight, thus preventing injuries, spread of disease, and costly veterinary expenses.  It has been estimated that 80% of dogs killed by cars and 80% of Feline AIDS cases are unneutered males.

* Better-behaved pets -- neutered pets rarely spray mark, roam and fight.  85% of bites involve unneutered dogs.

* Healthier pets -- neutered males don't have the testicular cancer or prostate problems common in intact dogs. Females spayed before their first heat cycle have 96% less breast cancer. Their risk of uterine infection is dramatically decreased, not to mention the many complications associated with pregnancy, whelping or raising a litter.

* It's safe -- the mortality rate is lower than that of the standard 6-9 month sterilization procedure.

* It's less traumatic for the pet -- young animals heal faster and are lower surgical risks than older animals who may be obese, in heat, pregnant, or ill. Young animals generally wake up faster after anesthesia.

Many humane shelters across the country now endorse spaying and neutering at the time of adoption. If yours didn't, then please ask your vet to perform a pediatric or early-age spay/neuter (also sometimes called juvenile or prepubertal spay/neuter) on your new pet.  They should be able to address any questions or concerns you may have.  For more information, you may also visit http://www.spayusa.org.

No conclusive controlled studies have ever been done to determine the best age to neuter dogs and cats.  On the other hand, current research does show that spaying before the first heat prevents the development of mammary gland tumors.  Since females can go into heat as young as four months of age, they should be spayed before then to receive that protection.  Early-age, or pediatric, neutering is currently performed on animals who are six to eight weeks of age and who weigh at least two pounds.

From the outset, veterinarians expressed concern about the long- and short-term safety of operating on such young animals.  Short-term safety was documented in 1993 when doctors at Angell Memorial Hospital in Boston published protocols for safe surgery and anesthesia in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association.  Other studies have since confirmed their conclusions, and in December 2000, JAVMA reported that researchers at Texas A & M University found no increase in physical or behavioral problems in cats for at least three years postoperatively.  Veterinarians have been safely performing the surgeries for shelters since the 1980s, adding to the growing body of supportive anecdotal information.

There is a lot of documentation to support spaying/neutering at a young age.  It would appear that we are just ahead of our time.  Some studies seem to link incontinence with early spaying.  Many vets read only PART of the study and ignore the evidence.

Since the publication of this article in 2001, additional studies were conducted by Spain and Scarlett at Cornell University, which established the long-term safety of pediatric neutering.  Thousands of animals were looked at for the study, some of them 11 years after neutering—and the only major concern was that female puppies may be more likely to experience urinary incontinence if spayed before three months of age.

Continuing Controversy

Unfortunately, despite the new studies, the controversy continues—and many veterinarians are still very hesitant to try pediatric neutering.  Concerns about obesity, stunted growth, underdevelopment of secondary sex characteristics, behavioral problems and increased incidence of both lower urinary tract disease and urinary incontinence have been addressed in the veterinary literature and found to be unwarranted.  Any differences that have been found appear to have no clinical significance, or occur regardless of the age at neutering.

The American Veterinary Medical Association and the American Animal Hospital Association are just two professional organizations that support pediatric neutering.  Veterinarians at the ASPCA have been neutering all shelter animals who weigh at least two pounds before adoption.  Yet despite the research, testimonials, anecdotal information and endorsements, the controversy continues.

Ironically, veterinarians who perform pediatric surgery insist that it is faster and less stressful to the animal than surgery at the conventional age.  There is less body fat to contend with, bleeding is minimal and the patients are awake much sooner after surgery.  They can be fed a small meal and sent home the same day.  No special surgical equipment is needed.  If the procedure is performed when the last vaccination is given at three to four months of age, owner compliance is increased.  Most vwas deciding to try something different.  The best part is that everyone benefits.  Veterinarians who at first were reluctant to try pediatric neutering now find that they prefer it—the hardest part was deciding to try something different.  The best part is that everyone benefits.

This article (the above three paragraphs), written by the ASPCA’s Lila Miller, DVM, Vice President, Veterinary Outreach, originally appeared in the Spring 2001 issue of ASPCA Animal Watch, and was updated to include more recent studies in August 2006.

The Controversy is Over: Prepubertal Neutering is the Surgery of Choice [an excerpt]

By Jeff Young, DVM

The ideal age for neutering our companion animal friends is 8-16 weeks.  Prepubertal neutering has been ‘controversial’ for years. Because of this controversy, a lot of academic research, independent studies and anecdotal evidence has accumulated.

The University of Florida conducted the first truly controlled study in 1991 comparing neutering at 7 weeks vs. 7 months of age. Texas A&M and the University of Florida have looked at urethral diameters in prepubertal vs. conventionally neutered animals.

The University of Colorado has provided very useful anesthetic protocols and the University of Minnesota has reviewed the literature extensively with regard to prepubertal neutering.

The nineties produced a lot of data with which to move forward. Just as the scientific literature has grown, so has the anecdotal information coming from humane societies, private veterinary practices, spay/neuter clinics and owners of pets neutered prepubertally.

The veterinary profession has for decades made 6-8 months the recommended age for neutering. There is no scientific reason for this age selection; it has simply become a ‘tradition.’ The conservative nature of the veterinary profession has made change hard. We must demand from any veterinarian we support, that they embrace prepubertal neutering as the standard. We must be willing to educate our veterinary friends and boycott those who are We do have years of anecdotal evidence that these prepube animals are leaner,lankier, and live longer healthier lives.

With regard to urinary incontinence, the literature is in conflict and inconclusive.  Studies place incontinence from 4% to 20% of neutered female dogs and 0.4 to 8% in unaltered female dogs.  What is clear is that large breed dogs are more commonly affected than small breed dogs.  Many factors including breed, thyroid level, allergies and level of obesity have not been fully evaluated.  Blaming urinary incontinence on lack of estrogen is not logical or fully supported by research.  Why is it that pregnant bitches don’t have increased rates of incontinence, given they have extremely low estrogen?  It is possible that obesity (controllable) and hypothyroidism (treatable) may prove to be primary factors in urinary incontinence.  At this time it is clear that prepubertally neutered females actually have a lower incidence of incontinence than those neutered at the ‘traditional’ age.  Also, the overall benefits of neutering are much greater than the alternative.  Their own national organization (AVMA) has endorsed the practice of prepubertal neutering since 1993.

Prepubertal dogs never develop ovarian or uterine tumors, get pyometra or go into heat.  Mammary cancer (the #1 cancer in female dogs) is almost eliminated with prepubertal neutering.  Testicular cancer is the #2 cancer in male dogs and a full 60% of unaltered dogs over the age of 5 develop prostate problems.  Perianal tumors are the most common tumor in male dogs and are directly correlated with testosterone.  The research, literature and anecdotal evidence are quite clear.  Prepubertal neutering has many more positive benefits than negative.  Prepubertal neutering must become a major tool in the fight against companion animal overpopulation.  Prepubertal animals are just healthier, happier pets that will make any adoption program more successful.

 

Here are some links for more information:

 

http://www.spayusa.org/media/pdfs/prepubal_neutering.pdf

 

 

20)  What if I don't want my dog spayed or neutered?

The only reason to keep a dog intact is if you are going to enter the dog in the show ring where they must be intact to compete.  We do not sell breeding dogs.  If you are interested in purchasing an AKC show dog, please contact us for pricing.  If you simply want a pet, but wish to wait in order to have a litter someday, you will have to purchase elsewhere.  We believe in pediatric spay/neuter for the reasons listed above. 

 

There are some who do not like to alter animals because they think it is cruel or expensive, or unnecessary.  However, animals were designed to make babies at a certain rate.  When that natural cycle is interrupted by mankind, problems occur.  Nature is what it is.  Spaying is not cruel, what IS cruel is permitting an animal to get cancers when it is preventable by using common sense.  We are concerned about the well being of the puppies we produce, not meeting our customers' level of training, tradition or understanding.  In this case, the customer is not always right.

 

 

21)  Tell me about the neutered male.

A neutered male makes a better pet than any female, every day of the week.  This is a general rule for all breeds.  We recommend a neutered male for families because a male will love everybody.  As a general rule, a female (spayed or not) will like only one family member and tolerate everyone else at best. 

 

 

 

Thanks again for your interest in our puppies.  Please feel free to contact us via telephone: (573) 729-6804 or e-mail.